The very best apricots will always be the tree-ripened fruit you pick yourself, but buying from a specialist greengrocer or farmer’s market that doesn’t refrigerate their fruit is the next best thing. Never squeeze apricots to check for ripeness, colour and, above all, fragrance should be your indicators. And you will know what I’m talking about when it comes to the aroma of a ripe apricot, there’s no mistaking it. I often have bowls of apricots in my kitchen instead of Summer flowers, their perfume is so intense. -MB